We pretty much had Versailles to ourselves yesterday, an amazing experience.
Yes, we had to awake at 6am, but that pain was much easier to bear than standing on endless lines and dealing with thousands of other people.
We caught the 8:02 RER C from Paris Austerlitz to Chateau Versailles and made it to the palace gates about 10 minutes before they opened.
Museum pass in hand, we strolled thru the main entrance, I think we were 8th in line.
The people ahead of us peeled off in different directions, and we found ourselves touring the chateau completely alone!
We went at a slowish pace, maybe not slow enough to catch every detail, but slow enough to stop and read the signs and take a few photos.
When we turned into the hall of mirrors, my breath was literally taken away. It is simply stunning. Not sure I would have had the same reaction if it was 2pm and I was being jostled by thousands of other gawkers. Maybe 2 or 3 other tourists walked thru while we stood and had no trouble imagining what it was like in Louis XIV%26#39;s time.
The walk thru the entire chateau took us just under an hour, maybe a little too quick for some, but we were eager to explore the expansive courtyard, gardens, and outlying estates.
Once we reached the gardens, there were maybe a few dozen other tourists there already. But the gardens are so huge and there were so few people, we couldn%26#39;t even hear them, so we felt almost completely alone.
We walked all the way down to the Petit Trianon, not knowing it doesn%26#39;t open until 12pm. So we walked back up to the grand canal and had crepes and coffee at La Flotille cafe. We were the only ones sitting outside. Other than the occasional group of rowdy teenagers passing by, it was quite peaceful.
Walked back down, this time to the Grand Trianon, waited a few minutes before it opened at 12pm, and were the 3rd pair to enter. We went thru this palace pretty quickly, but slowly enough to admire the pink marble and view of the gardens from the collonade.
Finally made it into the Petit Trianon and its surrounding gardens and buildings. It was magical, with winding paths, hidden nooks, not difficult to find a secluded spot, especially since there were so few people.
The Hameau and farm were amazing, easy to see why Marie Antoinette would want to slip into this fantasy world. But also quite astonishing to see the degrees people can go to escape reality.
Walked all the way back down to the Grand Canal, it%26#39;s 1:30pm at this point, and we were stunned to see and hear thousands of people filling every path and walkway. Quite a contrast from our peaceful and private walk down to the canal from the Chateu just a few hours earlier.
Finally forged our way thru the dense crowds and made it back up to the Chateau. Could not believe it when we saw hundreds of people standing on line for tickets. Have these people never picked up a guidebook or heard of Trip Advisor?
Back on the RER C just after 2pm, back in Paris Austerlitz by 3.
Our recommendation to you all is to just get up early and go on a weekday. Sure, it can be really tough if you%26#39;re towing 1 or 4 youngsters along, but it%26#39;s much better than standing on line and getting elbowed all afternoon.
We did not see the fountains in play, but did not feel like we missed out on anything, there%26#39;s so much else going on.
If we had to do it again... when we do it again, maybe we%26#39;ll split it up into 2 trips. Early morning long visit to the Chateau, then a return trip another weekday at 12 noon for longer stroll thru the Trianons. The RER C is quick, cheap and reliable, and having this incredible estate to yourself makes it well worth the effort.
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And was this on a Thursday? Was weather a factor or is first thing on a weekday in April always so quiet?
Were there flowers in bloom yet - I have no idea about how spring progresses compared with the Boston area. I am in Paris in 2 weeks - can%26#39;t wait!
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It%26#39;s good to know that being there early can make such a difference. Thanks!
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Early in April!
Early in July or August is not the same
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We toured Versailles on a Saturday in July of 2008, and like the OP, took the RER first thing in the morning, arriving before the gates opened....My husband and I had the Hall of Mirrors to ourselves for a good 10-15 minutes before the rest of the the summer throngs caught up...If Versailles is a must see destination on your trip, arriving early is non-negotiable. Besides, the peaceful feeling around the palace and grounds in the serenity of the morning is really part of the beauty,,,
Thank you for posting your wonderful report...it takes me back!
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Hi Ocean,
It was a stunningly beautiful day, so it wasn%26#39;t weather that was keeping people away, it was the early hour, we think.
The flowers were in bloom, maybe not to their fullest extent, but they were still beautiful. If you%26#39;re here in 2 weeks, as you said, they should be blooming even more.
Have fun, and good luck!
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Thanks for posting. Felt like I was right there with you. We%26#39;ll be in two weeks also. Was planning on a Saturday to see the fountains, but due to going to ballet Friday night at Palais Garnier (day of our arrival) thought it would be pushing it goint to Versailles the next day, so will have to do Sunday to see the fountains, but will definitely get there EARLY as you reoommend. Can%26#39;t wait. Sounds like you had a GREAT time!
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Yes indeedy arriving when anything opens is the absolute best way to see things without the crowds.
The packaged tours have to contend with 40+ people arriving and loading their bus so the tours don%26#39;t arrive en masse until somewhat later. If you triage your must see attractions and arrive at one each morning when it opens then you will enjoy the place with the least number of bodies getting in the way.
Another little trick I use when ever possible with the museums is to enter via the gift shop. If you have a museum pass then just go into the gift shop and directly to the museum access showing your pass. I have avoided huge lines at the d%26#39;Orsay that way.
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